Two Days in Kyoto

Congratulations!  If you are reading this, you intend to spend (at least) two days in Kyoto, a historic city with a rich cultural heritage. 

I have travelled to Kyoto multiple times in the last 10 years.  It is one of my favorite cities and I want to make sure that you get the most out of your visit.

Below is my ideal itinerary for a first-time visit to the city.  As I love to explore the history and culture of the places I visit, there is a heavy emphasis on Kyoto’s storied temples and other historic places of interest.

Armed with the information below, you will be well prepared to navigate Kyoto’s vast trove of gardens, temples, and art.

Day 1 – From Zen to Shinto in Southern Higashiyama

Overview – Today, we are going to be spending our time in Southern Higashiyama, the main sightseeing district of Kyoto.  We’ll start toward the south at Tofuku-ji temple and Kiyomizu Dera temple.  From there, we’ll explore the atmospheric Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka streets, stopping for shopping and lunch.  Afterwards, we’ll jump a bit north to Shoren-in, before visiting the massive temple complex of Chion-in.  We’ll end the day at Yasaka Jinja in the heart of the historic Gion district.  In following this itinerary, you will survey a broad swath of Japanese religious practices, covering Zen (Tofuku-Ji), Tendai (Shoren-In), and Pure Land (Chion-In) Buddhism, before ending at a Shinto shrine (Yasaka Jinja).  Though covering a lot, time estimates in this schedule are on the conservative side, so move through it at your leisure.

9:00-10:00 – Tofuku-Ji

We are going start the day off at Tofuku-Ji, one of the most beautiful Zen temples in the city.  It is best to approach temple from the south, starting from Tofuku-Ji’s monumental sanmon gate.  This gate dates to 1425 and is the oldest and largest gate of any Zen temple in Japan.  

As you walk north, you will pass around the temple’s main halls (most of which are closed to visitors) before reaching the abbot’s quarters (Hojo).  To enter requires a ticket.  I recommend purchasing a combined ticket (1,000 yen for adults, 500 for children), which you will use to access the wooden bridge later.

The Hojo’s primary attraction is the modernist Zen gardens designed by the famed landscape architect Shigemorie Mirein in 1939.  The largest of these gardens is the dry garden furthest south, which is meant to evoke the mythical Daoist paradise of Horai.

After visiting the Hojo, head over to the entrance of the Tsutenkyo bridge, in front of which you will see a ticket booth.  If you purchased the combined ticket, you will be able to enter without having to buy another.  

Here you will see why I have listed Tofuku-Ji at the top of this itinerary.  As you cross over the covered wooden bridge, you will be treated to fantastic views of Tofuku-Ji’s famed stroll garden, which is said to contain 2,000 maple trees.  During spring and summer months, the garden is an oasis of greenery.  During the autumn, it bursts into a fiery blur of red, orange, and yellow, making it the most popular garden in the city during the short fall foliage season.

10:30 to 11:30 – Kiyomizu Dera

After finishing at Tofuku-Ji, I recommend taking a taxi (you can call it via Uber) to Kiyomizu Dera.  The ride will take only 15 minutes.  You can also try taking bus 207, getting on at the Tofukuji stop and getting off at Kiyomizu-Michi.  This option will take 30-40 minutes and requires walking a little over a kilometer.

Kiyomizu Dera is one of Kyoto’s oldest and most unique temples.  At the entrance, you will be greeted by the temple’s bright orange gates.  Walk past them to get to the ticket booth near the temple’s main hall.  The cost to enter is 400 yen.  

Here you will be treated to one of the best views in the entire city – Kiyomizu Dera’s famed veranda, which extends from the temple’s main hall.  Jutting dramatically out over the cliffside, the veranda offers unobstructed views of the nearby hills and city beyond.

Once you’ve gotten your fill of the view, be sure to check out the temple’s shrine to Kannon (Guanyin in Chinese and Avalokiteshvara in Sanskrit), a widely worshipped bodhisattva said to be the embodiment of the Buddhist virtue of compassion.

As you exit the hall, continue past the steps to the Onko-in Hall (which offers still more great views).  This path will take you to the pagoda on the other side of the temple grounds before turning back to the main hall.  You’ll eventually reach a small fountain fed by a mountain spring right beneath the veranda.  The waters of this fountain inspired the name of the temple – “Kiyomizu Dera,” which means “pure water.“

From here, walk through the garden and back to the entrance.  

11:30 to 1:00 – Sannenzaka, Ninenzaka, and Lunch

After exiting Kiyomizu Dera, stroll to the entrance of the famed Sannenzaka road, a picturesque alleyway which offers a taste of old Kyoto.  As you walk down Sannenzaka, turn right when you reach the stone stairs to head down to Ninenzaka – another old alley in the historic district.

Take your time along these two old streets.  If you’re looking for a souvenir from Kyoto or gifts for family and friends, this is one of the best places to get it.  This is not a big area, leaving plenty of time to double back and forth if necessary. 

If shopping isn’t your thing, take a rest at one of the many coffee and tea shops along the path and spend a moment watching the world pass by.  

This would be a good moment to also be on the lookout for a lunch place.  Several restaurants are clustered toward the north end of Ninenzaka toward Kodaiji.  

1:00 to 2:15 – Shoren-in

From the bottom (north side) of Ninenzaka, walk to Shoren-in.  The walk is a little over a kilometer, taking you around Kodai-ji temple, through Maruyama Park, and past Chion-in.  If you’d prefer not to walk, you can also catch a taxi at Ishin-no-michi at the bottom of Ninenzaka.

Try to get to Shoren-in temple a bit before 1:30.  You will recognize it by the giant 800-year old Camphor tree outside its main gate.  

Shoren-in, despite its small size, has just about everything you could want from a Kyoto temple – a wonderful stroll garden, a scenic overlook, beautiful screen paintings, haunting altars, and artifacts from former denizens.  Take note of the pictures of royal family members visiting the temple in the main hall.  By tradition, the head priest of the temple must be a member of the royal family.

The cost to enter Shoren-in is 600 yen for adults and 400 yen for children.  You can also enjoy a tea ceremony while at the temple (1200 yen) or try your hand at sutra copying.  

2:15 to 4:00 – Chion-in

After a leisurely visit to Shoren-in, walk back towards the park to Chion-in temple.

Chion-in is a world apart from Shoren-in.  If the latter emphasizes intimacy, the former suggests grandeur.  

Long one of the chief temples of Pure Land Buddhism (the most popular form of Buddhism in Japan), Chion-in is a massive complex of halls, gardens, and monuments.  One enters from the west through the massive sanmon gate.  From the gate’s rafters hang large purple banners with the Tokugawa family crest, a nod to Chion-In’s status as the chief temple of the clan which ruled Japan from 1603 until 1868. 

Past the gate is a wide stone staircase that leads up to the temple’s main buildings, which spread out across a broad open square.  Be sure to peak into the monumental Meido Hall to see the grandiose altar and climb up to the belfry and founder’s hall behind the temple’s main buildings.

Chion-in also hosts two gardens – the Hojo (abbot’s hall) garden behind the Meido and the Yuzen’en garden near the sanmon gate.  While the rest of the temple is free to visit, tickets are required to enter the gardens (400 for the Hojo and 300 for the Yuzen’en).  

4:00 onward – Maruyama Park, Yasaka Jinja, Gion

After meandering around Chion-in, wonder back to Murayama Park, which in the spring explodes with cherry blossoms.  Enjoy the wide paths, pond, and nearby food stalls.  From here, you can wonder into the heart of Gion for drinks and/or dinner. 

But don’t go too far!  After dark, you will want to return to the park to visit Yasaka Jinja, a beautiful Shinto shrine with rows of lanterns that are lit up at night.  It is one of Japan’s most iconic sites and a perfect way to end your first day in Kyoto.

Day 2 – Pavilions of Silver and Gold

Today, we see the famed Gold and Silver Pavilions.  We start off at the Silver Pavilion, a temple that wows everyone who visits.   From here, we will take a leisurely stroll down Kyoto’s scenic Philosopher’s Path before reaching Eikando with its famous overlook.  From there, we head to Nanzen-Ji, a site redolent with centuries of history.  Afterwards, we go to Nishiki Market for lunch, before heading to Kinkaku-Ji – the Temple of the Golden Pavilion – possibly the most popular attraction in all of Kyoto.  We finish at Ryoan Temple, where you can spend a moment contemplating its enigmatic rock garden as you conclude your visit to Kyoto.  As with the first day, I’ve built in lots of time to visit each place, so feel free to go at a leisurely pace.

8:30 to 9:15 – Ginkaku-Ji (The Temple of the Silver Pavilion)

We are going to start off the morning at Ginkaku-Ji – the Temple of the Silver Pavilion.  Originally part of the retirement estate of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the site was converted into a Zen temple in 1490 following the shogun’s death.

After passing through the entrance, you first encounter a dry garden of raked gravel.  Take note of the tall conical gravel mound, sometimes called a moon-viewing platform.  

Further back is the stroll garden, featuring a pond, ornamental stones, bright green moss, and a wonderful overlook.  Yoshimasa is said to have meticulously planned out every detail of this garden, reportedly even choosing the placement of each ornamental stone.  The resulting ambience is that of an idyllic rustic environment – natural and pure. 

Also notable is the temple’s namesake pavilion, which sits on the edge of a pond.  Despite its name, the pavilion is not silver.  The name derives from the silvery light that would bathe the pavilion during moon viewing parties hosted by the retired shogun. 

The cost to enter the temple is 500 yen for adults and 300 yen for children.

9:15-10:00 – Philosopher’s Path

After finishing at Ginkaku-Ji, head down the hill to the Philosopher’s Path, which winds south along a small canal.  Lined with cherry blossom trees, the path is especially beautiful during the Sakura season in early April.  The path isn’t long, just a little over a mile.  Lining the path are coffee shops and tea houses in case you need a brief rest.

The Philosopher’s Path can be easily traversed in about 30 minutes.  That said, if you need more time, you can skip the next stop – Eikando – and go straight to Nanzen-Ji.

10:00 to 11:00 – Eikando Zenrin-Ji

At the end of the Philosopher’s Path is Eikando, a Pure Land Buddhist temple.  Eikando sits on a particularly scenic spot, abutting right up against the Higashiyama hills.  Here, you can wander amidst its halls and stroll through the garden around its picturesque pond.  Be sure to save time to climb up to the pagoda, which offers one of the best overlooks in all of Kyoto.

Entrance to the temple costs 600 yen for adults and 400 yen for children.

11:00 to 12:00 – Nanzen-Ji

From Eikando, we now visit the great Zen temple of Nanzen-Ji.  Follow the path towards the hills to enter the temple at the eastern end. 

From this entrance, you will first encounter the Abbot’s Quarters (Hojo).  The cost to enter is 500 yen.  Inside you will discover a treasure trove of art and a series of elegant dry gardens that dot the intervals between the halls.

After finishing at the Hojo, head over to the aqueduct running alongside the temple.  One of the first Western innovations imported to the city, the weathered stones of the aqueduct meld well with the temple’s rustic scenery.

Next, walk towards the large yellow lecture hall.  While you cannot enter the hall, the entrance is usually left open, allowing you to peek inside for a glimpse of the famed circular dragon painting on the ceiling.

Before leaving Nanzen-Ji, be sure to check out the Sanmon gate at the western end of the temple.  For 500 yen, you can climb to the top where you will be treated to great views over the city and temple.

12:00 to 2:00 – Nishiki Market/Lunch

Not far from the Sanmon gate is a taxi stand.  From here, take a cab to Kyoto’s famed Nishiki market.  A long arcade, you’ll know you’ve made it by the stained green, yellow, and red glass overhead.  The market offers all manner of street food, making it a great place to grab lunch.

If you’re interested in more traditional fare or have some extra shopping to get in, wander over to the more expansive Teramachi arcade, which connects with Nishiki market on its eastern end.

2:00 to 3:00 – Kinkaku Ji (The Temple of the Golden Pavilion)

When you are ready, head on over to Kinkaku Ji, better known as the Temple of the Golden Pavilion.  One of Kyoto’s most popular attractions, the temple was hived off from part of the retirement estate of shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu following his death.  

As its name suggests, the temple features a three-story pavilion, the top two levels of which are wrapped in gold foil.  The pavilion sits on the shore of a pond in the middle of an elegant stroll garden which abounds with Rikushu pines and ornamental rocks.  

The contrast between the ostentatious décor of the pavilion against the simple and rustic landscaping of the surrounding garden is what makes Kinkaku-Ji one of the most unique places in Kyoto.   

As you approach the temple, take a moment to admire the reflection of the pavilion in the waters of the pond.  Also take note of Mt. Kinugasa.  Though far in the distance, the wooded mountain seems to blend seamlessly into the garden – an effect known as “borrowed scenery.”

The cost to enter Kinkaku-ji is 500 yen for adults and 300 for children.  

3:00 to 4:00 – Ryoan-Ji

Ryoan-Ji is about a mile from Kinkaku-Ji.  You can walk to it in 20 minutes or take a taxi, which you can catch at the stand right outside the temple.  

Ryoan-Ji is best known for the rock garden in the back of the temple, the most famous in all of Kyoto.  Made up of 15 rocks separated by raked gravel, the garden is the source of endless fascination for dry-landscape aficionados.  

Ryoan-Ji also possesses a beautiful stroll garden, set around a sizeable pond with an ornamental island in the middle.  The garden is especially picturesque during cherry blossom season.

Take your time at Ryoan-ji – the last stop in this itinerary.  Here, in its tranquil gardens, take a moment to reflect on your time in Kyoto and the unique experiences you’ve had in this ancient and fascinating city.

Cost to enter Ryoan-ji is 600 yen for adults, 500 for high school students, and 300 yen for younger children.  

Alternative Options

The above itinerary offers what I strongly feel to be the best of what Kyoto has to offer in a manageable chunk.  That said, you may be wondering why some notable sites seem to not have made the cut.  Below are some other famed tourist attractions, which if of interest can be easily added into the above itinerary.

Fushimi Inari

Fushimi Inari may at this point be the most famous tourist attraction in all of Kyoto.  With its long lines of bright orange gates running 4 kilometers up mystical mountain trails, it’s not hard to understand why it draws a crowd. 

Despite all that it has to offer, however, I struggle to make a full-throated endorsement.  It’s not a site that easily accommodates mass tourism, yet even from the earliest hours in the morning, busloads of tourists are continuously dropped off at the entrance to make their way up the steep mountain passes.  Crowds do thin out as you go higher up, but not as much as you might expect.

In my view, a stop at Fushimi-Inari does not make sense if you only have two days, especially with all the other things Kyoto has to offer.  That said, if you’re dying to see Fushimi-Inari, you can easily plan a stop at the top of day one.  It is walking distance from Tofuku-Ji and opens early.  I recommend you arrive at 7:00 or even earlier if possible.  

Note that it’s easy to spend hours here.  On my last visit, it took about 2 hours to make the entire circuit with the crowds and steep trail.  The best viewpoint over the city is about halfway up, before you enter the final long loop that takes you to the peak.  It provides a natural stopping point if you don’t want to make the full circuit.

Arashiyama

Earlier versions of this schedule did include Arashiyama, the chief attraction of which is the exquisite Tenryu-Ji.  Other notable attractions in Arashiyama are the bamboo forest, the Okachi-Sanso villa, and the picturesque Togetsu-Kyo bridge.  The town itself is also neat, with nice shops and cafés – though they are admittedly crowded at times.

To fit this in, I recommend you put it at the top of day two.  Start early at Tenryu-Ji, visiting the Hojo first before visiting the garden.  From there, exit out the back to the bamboo forest.  Follow the path to reach Okachi-Sanso villa and its famed garden.

Once you’ve finished seeing the villa, walk back out to the main street to catch a taxi to Kinkaku-Ji (you might want to skip Ryoan-Ji).  Grab lunch at Nishiki Market, then do the morning activities in the afternoon, beginning with Ginkaku-Ji.

Honen-In and other temples along the Philosopher’s Path

Honen-In is another well-known temple near the Philosopher’s Path.  You may consider wandering in as you walk down the path.  It’s a small temple, and by itself, probably won’t necessitate major adjustments to the schedule given the time padding I’ve already included.  

Aside from Honen-in, there are a couple other temples along the Philosopher’s path as well.  Naturally, the more you visit, the more you will have to hustle through the later parts of the schedule.

Nanzen-Ji subtemples

Nanzen-Ji has two incredible sub-temples – Tenju-An and Konchi-In  (a third – Nanzen-In, is currently undergoing renovation).  Both are very near Nanzen-Ji and have beautiful gardens. 

If you have a particular interest in Zen, hitting these may be worthwhile.  To allow sufficient time to see them, you might consider rushing the early morning activities, and/or skipping Eikando.  You might also consider grabbing a quick lunch near Nanzen-Ji, and then going straight to Kinkaku-Ji (thus avoiding a detour to Nishiki market).  

If you rush through – you can see Tenju-An in 20 minutes and Konchi-In in 30 minutes.  Add 10 minutes to each for a more relaxed and enjoyable visit.